Spaghetti Agretti

Being something of a vegetable aficionado, it is not very often that I “discover” an entirely new vegetable. However, it was just my luck that I ran into Agretti and had a chance to experiment on the edge of my food experience.

Chase’s Daily in Belfast, ME is an indoor farmer’s market and kitchen that offers locally grown produce, handmade food – and cooking advice! The vegetables and flowers are displayed in rustic wash tubs on a simple bench underneath the current art of the month. Labels are hand-lettered on wooden shingles. Everything was fresh and luscious and so appealing. What first caught my eye was the bin of garlic scapes labeled “free”. I had to take advantage of that. And then, right next to the scapes, was a bunch of springy, feathery green stuff that I had never seen before: Agretti. Agretti looks like a cross between mammoth dill, grass and asparagus ferns and tastes crunchy and mild and watery and very lively.

Research tells me that Agretti (Salsola soda) is an Italian green native to the Mediterranean basin and was commonly grown at the edge of salty marshes, or irrigated with salt water. Agretti was grown in the past as a raw material for soda ash, which was used in glassmaking and soap making. The very friendly chef at Chase’s Daily told me that he has had Agretti in Italy, but also in Mexico, and he was the one who suggested some cooking methods to me … inspiring our improvisational dinner:

Spaghetti Agretti

1 bunch Agretti, in 3 or 4” pieces
1 bunch garlic scapes, in 3 or 4” pieces
2 c fresh edible pod peas, trimmed and halved
1 lb whole wheat cavatappi pasta
Parmesan Reggiano, shaved
Olive oil, salt, pepper, red pepper flakes

Boil a large pot of salted water. Blanch garlic scapes and peas for 2 minutes and remove. Blanch Agretti for about 4 minutes and remove when tender but still crunchy. Boil pasta until al dente. Toss everything together and top with shaved Parmesan Reggiano.